“The reports of my death are greatly exaggerated.” Mark Twain definitely said something of the sort in response to the premature publishing of his obituary, but even misquoted, truer words could never be spoken about San Francisco. In fact, the city—long revered for its European charm, rich cultural diversity, and innate beauty—has always been filled with a healthy sense of optimism, and despite some reports to the contrary there’s more about it to love now than ever before.
Where to Stay
The Post Room at the Beacon Grand, a Union Square hot spot known for its charming decor and its fashionable top-floor bar, Starlite.
It’s all about location, location, location. The Ritz Carlton sits atop Nob Hill as a beacon of neoclassical architecture and a stalwart of the city’s finest hospitality. Start your day with breakfast downstairs at Parallel 37 and end it before bed at its ultra-contemporary co*cktail bar, The Lounge. Alternatively, two blocks away you’ll find the Fairmont San Francisco in all of its landmarked grandeur. The 606-room luxury hotel is regarded for its impeccable service and experiences like afternoon tea, co*cktails in the Laurel Court, and the iconic Tonga Room (which we’ll get to later).
"Their breakfast is really good!" Ivy Getty says of Hotel Drisco.
For a more residential feel, T&C cover star Ivy Getty recommends Hotel Drisco, a 48-room, four-story boutique Edwardian-style property nestled in Pacific Heights. “I love it the most because it’s away from everything—when all you see from your hotel is downtown it can feel off-putting. And their breakfast is really good!”
If something more central is what you’re after, the Taj Campton Place is ideally situated on Union Square with luxury boutiques like Bulgari, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton in your credit card’s sightline. And with just 110 rooms, the personal attention you receive is enviable. “I get the same corner room on a high floor with a view of the square—it’s my home away from home,” says Libertine creative director and designer Johnson Hartig who jets up from Los Angeles several times a year for trunk shows. “They know me, I know them, and the three-minute walk to Neiman Marcus is heaven.” The newest of the Union Square hotels, the 418-room Beacon Grand, underwent extensive renovations and a serious interior redesign in 2022. Formerly the Sir Frances Drake Hotel, its Renaissance Revival architecture has been expertly enhanced by Kraig Kalashian’s award-winning design firm. Custom furnishings, bespoke wallpapers, restored period details, and hand-selected art and décor pay homage to the Golden Gate City’s impeccable style.
Where to Eat
Michael and Lindsay Tusk's Quince, where guests flock for a California contemporary menu in a space designed by Steven Volpe and Diego Delgado-Elias.
Mornings are meant for pancakes—18 “world famous” Swedish pancakes to be exact—at Sears Fine Foods. Although he may deny it, Florent Bonadei, Boucheron’s visiting business development director, recently placed two orders: one to eat on the spot and another to enjoy at lunch. Directly across the street from the Beacon Grand, the 86-year-old institution is also open for lunch and dinner with a diverse menu. Rose’s Café in the city’s Cow Hollow neighborhood is a start-your-day destination serving up an array of pastries and egg dishes, including an incredible breakfast pizza with smoked ham, fontina, and eggs.
Moving from day into night, classic spots pull very few punches in the foodie mecca. Rolling a dumpling cart, however, is a different story. If you’ve never experienced Yank Sing—the third-generation family-owned dim sum destination—it might reveal a serious character flaw. The same could be said for never having the namesake roast chicken at Zuni Café which must be ordered as soon as you’re seated to accommodate the 45-minute prep time. And their burger, served at lunch on a warm focaccia bun, runs neck and neck with the one served at Balboa Café across town that comes on a baguette. Then there’s Café Jacqueline, an institution since 1979, where chef and owner Jacqueline Margulis has been making sweet and savory soufflés for diners for the past 45 years. “She’s 87-years-old and still makes them by hand, one-by-one—it’s almost indescribable,” says design impresario Ken Fulk, a frequent patron.
A single block of historic Jackson Square has become a gastronomic destination thanks to two well-established restaurants from one pioneering couple. And, although it was closed for a year-long renovation and menu update, Michael and Lindsay Tusk have finally reopened Quince. During the three Michelin-starred eatery’s full redo, its Italian sister restaurant, Cotogna, was picking up the slack while maintaining its own coveted reservation status (the pastas are world class). As Getty puts it: “It’s like Prada and Miu Miu—one’s supposed to be more casual, and they’re both incredible.” In addition to a full seasonal tasting menu rooted in contemporary California cuisine, the Tusks's revamped flagship now offers a four-course version and à la carte nibbles in a space designed by Steven Volpe and Diego Delgado-Elias.
The soufflés at Café Jacqueline are, in the words of Ken Fulk, "almost indescribable."
Thanks to several recent restaurant additions across the city, local epicureans have significantly expanded their dining radiuses. Set in the Presidio, in the corner of an old Army barrack, Dalida serves up Eastern Mediterranean fare in a picturesque setting (the thinly sliced octopus with an olive-caper dressing and pork sujuk sauce is a must). Over in Chinatown, Mister Jiu’s alums Franky Ho and Michael Long just-opened Four Kings, a Hong Kong-inspired eatery that’s living up to its hype (don’t miss out on the Mapo spaghetti). And in Nob Hill, everyone wants a slice of Collina's 48-layer “Lasagnette” stacked with a meaty Bolognese, spinach, and Parmigiano Fonduta paired, of course, with a glass of minerally Italian white or red wine.
Where to Drink
The Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar at the Fairmont San Francisco, a 79-year-old classic for San Francisco locals and visitors alike.
The Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar, the legendary 79-year-old tiki bar originally designed by MGM set designer Mel Melvin, in the aforementioned Fairmont, is the gold standard of Polynesian-themed tiki bars. A night out in this man-made tropical paradise is a no-brainer, and the only question should be whether to order the 1944 Mai Tai or a Fog Cutter. “I have to say, we had a pretty incredible after party there one night,” recalls Hartig. As hotel bars go, Starlite, the new nightlife spot atop the Beacon Grand, has all the hallmarks of a new classic: 360-degree views of the city, Art Deco-inspired interiors, craft co*cktails and a resident DJ. Another new watering hole, Bar Sprezzatura—a bar so Italian you might swear you’d stumbled in from a Venetian alleyway—is neatly tucked away on an elevated level of One Maritime Plaza in the Financial District. The co*cktail menu designed by Carlo Splendorini is as splendid as his name and, according to Fulk, so is the clientele. “It’s a super fashionable crowd—heels, hair, suits. It’s super chic and packed on a Monday night.” Request the Martini di Lusso to kick things off along with a few tasty bites from chef Joseph Offner.
What to See
The de Young Museum, in Golden Gate Park, is known for both its permanent collection as well as blockbuster exhibitions.
The de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park offers some of the best curated exhibitions in town, as does its counterpart, the Legion of Honor, which celebrates its 100th birthday this year. There’s always a case for visiting SFMOMA, and the Contemporary Jewish Museum is a sleeper hit whose towering geometric blue steel edifice beckons you in for unique shows and regular programming at the non-collecting institution. Nature lovers should absolutely explore the Presidio Tunnel Tops, the city’s newest park set across 14 acres and designed by James Corner’s Field Operations, the team behind New York City’s High Line.
Where to Shop
The Ferry Building, along San Francisco's Embarcadero, is known for its shops, dining options, and the popular farmer's market.
For the last 44 years, Modern Appealing Clothing in Hayes Valley has been the premiere boutique for avant garde designer men’s and womenswear: Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçon, Sofie D’Hoore, and Walter Van Beirendonck to name a few. If Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo had a boho-chic cousin, it would be Vicki Winston at Neiman Marcus on Union Square. Her office (aka “Vicki’s Room”) is a stockpile of the latest designer pieces pulled for the city’s best-dressed women, by appointment, naturally. Lost Art Salon in the Mission District acquires full canons of obscure and historically significant artists and offers the career-spanning works to new audiences. Over in the Design District, the Antique & Art Exchange is a secret weapon for interior designers and aesthetes alike. “They have an incredible assortment of objects and antiques—I always end up shipping something home,” Hartig says. A stroll through the Ferry Building along the Embarcadero isn’t the tourist trap you’d think, particularly when its farmer’s market is in full swing. Across town, a two-block radius of Jackson Square is bustling with activity. From designer Thom Browne’s latest retail outpost and Anine Bing’s eponymous fashion house to Postscript—a specialty market and cafe—and William Stout Architectural Books, there’s plenty to peruse between reservations and cultural outings.
